Description
Note: Price is in $CDN.
Pilot Project – 3D ELNA Supermatic/Transforma/722010 Style Pulleys/Friction Wheel and Removal tool for Original Pulley
Please note: These Friction Wheels/Pulleys (referred to as pulleys from here on out) are still part of a pilot project until we have significant feedback. As there are still requests for these pulleys and little feedback so far, the pilot has been reinstated as of July 31, 2023.
Back Orders are generally filled within 3 business days for 3d printed items. If there will be an unavoidable delay, I will be in contact to let you know.
Frequently Asked Questions are below. Please read these!
These pulleys for ELNA Supermatic / Transforma / 722010 style machines come with 2 sets of O-Rings (one set installed and a spare set) and a new spring (roll) pin. The removal tool will come assembled as you see in the photos. Please refer to the videos linked in the FAQ for usage.
Note: Colours of both pulley and tool will vary.
What the pulley looks like installed:
Frequently Asked Questions
(Most of this is covered in the video I posted on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/LxUNe4MxxBg )
1. Do you have an installation booklet/instructions/etc
Currently, we do not.
There are however 2 YouTube videos covering install.
The “Quick and Dirty” which has no talk about the history of the parts/tool and the decisions about the type of material used to print them but shows that the removal and install can be done in under 4 minutes!: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtdnGDzoUwA
And the longer video (a recorded livestream) with all of the above included. https://youtu.be/LxUNe4MxxBg
Combined with the FAQ you see here, most if not all questions should be covered.
If we determine that a booklet is required, we may produce that at a later date.
2. How are this pulley and the removal tool different than the one in the ELNA Heirloom group?
Some time ago, the ELNA Heirloom group (formerly at Yahoo groups) had posted drawings of the pulley from which there was a 3D printer file created.
Initially, I had been testing and using this file but I found the parts required too much “post processing”. The nature of current 3d printing is that small holes can sometimes be printed smaller than intended. All of these objects we’re working with are considered small to very small – so the holes all needed to be adjusted to fit the motor shaft and the roll pin correctly after the part is printed. That enlargement carries the risk of making a true pulley untrue and thus garbage. This is just the nature of the beast and would be necessary with the same file printed on a library printer or even by the professional printing websites.
In fact, a file that prints perfectly on one printer may still need to be adjusted for another printer. I have recreated the friction wheel file that I use in CAD using the original drawings and made the adjustments required for it to print properly on my printer with no adjustment afterward.
I also recreated the removal tool to print without requiring post processing and also added a couple of scribe lines to make it easier to see the alignment of the rivet pin to roll pin while in use.
If a person were to have the pulley printed professionally, not only would they have to do the post processing themselves but they would also have to source the 2 sizes of Durameter A90 O-Rings and spring pin. These 3 things actually turned out to be the most challenging part to find here in Canada. In the end, I had to purchase 50 of each size of O-Rings in order to complete these friction wheels and I’m still looking for a better source for 2mm spring (roll) pins and generally have to buy 40- 50 of those at a time as well.
3. What tools do I need for removal of the old pulley?
Once the handwheel is off, only the removal tool is required for removal of the pulley and maybe a little bit of dexterity.
Depending on the strength of your hands and how long the spring pin has been the motor shaft, you may need to use a Phillips screw driver with the removal tool to push the pin out. It is designed though to be operable with only the strength of your hands as you can see in the video. This can be made easier by turning the bolt back and forth a number of times before you try to use it on the machine. This will ensure that there’s no “overextrusion” of plastic to try to turn the bolt against.
NOTE: If you’ve got the rivet pin against the roll pin though and it’s really tight: STOP! and make sure that the tool’s pin is lined up and that you’re not pressing the pin against the pulley’s collar instead of the roll pin. Continuing this way will likely bend the rivet pin and further still will damage the tool. As of February 2023, this is the only problem with the tool that’s been reported to me but 3 people have had the problem.
4. That pin in the removal tool looks pretty soft, are you sure it will do the job?
The pin in the tool is intended to bend first, so that the motor shaft won’t be hurt and so that it can’t damage the roll pin either.
If it becomes bent, you can replace it with another 1/8″ aluminum rivet stem – they can be cut to size with the cutting part of a pair of pliers. They can be found in any hardware store. If the pin is really bent through the over-tightening of the bolt/screw when it’s not lined up right though – the tool will be damaged. The aluminum is still tougher than the plastic.
Just enough is lots. See the note in #3 above.
5. What tools do I need for the installation of the new pulley?
Installation only requires a pair of slip joint pliers as I show in the videos.
6. Does the removal tool also work for installing/removing the new pulley?
The tool is only designed to remove the original pulley. The replacement has a slightly larger collar for strength so the tool doesn’t fit it – so to pull the new one would require either one of the older methods or an updated removal tool. The deluxe kit contains this larger tool. This shouldn’t be needed though – that’s what this design is all about. If the O-rings become flat – roll them off and roll the new ones on. Only if the pulley core itself became damaged should you need to remove it.
7. I could just download a file from the Internet and have my library print it, why shouldn’t I do that?
You certainly can! (See the Elna Heirloom group at groups.io for the original files in this case. And please seek them for support of files you download there and have printed by someone else.) Additionally, you would still have to do the post processing and also source the 2 sizes of Durameter A90 O-Rings and spring pin.
You should know the following things:
- PLA (what most libraries will print) pulleys start to soften around 65C – 70C (140 – 150F) and deformed due to friction in testing.
- The removal tool is fine in PLA – it’s not subject to heat or friction.
The pulleys we’re printing are made of PETG (what disposable water bottles and such are made of). Nylon is a future possibility if the PETG proves problematic in testing, however we’re trying to minimize environmental impact (there’s always waste and failed prints in 3D printing) and maximize ease of printing as well as safety by using PETG instead of Nylon. In my own personal testing, the heat created from friction on the PETG pulley has not been high enough to deform the pulley nor have I had a single report of a deformed pulley as of February 2023.
Nylon has a glass transition point (starts to soften and melt) of around 90C (194F). PETG is around 80-88C (175F ish to 190F). Nylon has the added challenge of being forever hygroscopic and so has the potential to change dimensions indefinitely.
8. I dropped the spring pin into the machine while removing the old or installing the new friction wheel. Do I have to disassemble the whole machine?
Not usually. I find turning the machine up and handwheel side downward and giving it a bit of a shake usually works. Obviously be very careful while doing this that you don’t lose your grip and damage yourself or others or the machine!
Additionally, if you took the bottom off to lower the motor (see #9), it’ll likely fall out there.
9. I can’t quite get the old friction wheel off – it’s too tall to slip off the motor shaft. Now what?
Sometimes, it can take a special wiggle and I suspect holding your head just right and it will pop off. If it still doesn’t come off, there were a few early years where the aluminum piece above that pulley extended lower than in the later models. If that’s the case with your machine, you will need to lower the motor in order to replace the pulley. Please see the longer of the YouTube videos for a description of what’s required. It’s not a demonstration but I do describe what’s required and where. This starts at 2:15 of the long video.
You may want to put the new pulley on before raising and securing the motor again.
10. I’m having a heck of time getting the pin into the replacement pulley.
Roll pins can be a challenge to get into the pulley and the motor shaft at the best of times. The edges of these replacement roll pins aren’t tapered which is what makes them extra challenging to install. Unfortunately, they’re the only ones I’ve been able to find in the right size so far. In fact, you’ll see in the video that I reused the old one. You can reuse the roll pin that is currently installed if you want – just try to center it the best you can. The old pin is about 12mm long and the new pulley is 14mm so the original pin is a touch short (2mm or roughly 1/12″) with the new pulley’s diameter.
That said, The pin is supposed to be very tight – if you can push it in by hand, it’s likely damaged – use a pair of slip joint pliers like I show in the video – but do it carefully or the pulley can be marked (but does not affect its function as long as the surface where the O-Rings sit is not squished).
That part starts at about 14:40 in this video – https://youtu.be/LxUNe4MxxBg?t=881
Alternatively, you could try rotating the pin a little – i.e. if the slot in the pin was facing up (12 o’clock), try making it face to the side (3 or 9 o’clock) and see if that helps.
One caution. As of February 2022, I’ve had a single report of a pulley snapping when the roll pin didn’t go in straight. If this happens, please contact me here so we can discuss replacement options.
11. I need to change the O-Rings, how best to do this?
You will want to use something that will not damage the pulley. I use my finger nails or a wooden skewer.
12. I ordered a friction wheel/tool from someone else or had the library print one, will you support it?
No, part of the cost of any retail sale – even in the testing phase – is to cover a portion of the time spent providing support that a person may require. If you acquired your pulley/tool from someone else, please see them for your support. If you DID acquire it from me, please get in contact (see #14) and we’ll troubleshoot together.
13. I’d really just like someone to install this for me, can I send you my machine and have you do it?
I prefer not to ship machines (it takes too long to package them properly and they can still be damaged in transit) but if you are local to me (Central Alberta, Canada), arrangements can be made for me to install the pulley for you for a fee. If you’re not local to me, ask your local shop if they’re willing. If not, perhaps a family member or friend would be willing to watch the video and take it on.
14. I ordered and received the pulley from you and I want to provide feedback (always welcome! that’s the purpose of this pilot project!), I’m having trouble, I need some moral support, how do I get in contact?
Right here. Please do note business hours and expected response times. AA is a one woman show at present!
15. So, you’ve been doing this pilot for several months now. What are the issues that have been uncovered?
As of February 2023, here’s what I’ve learned so far from the pilot:
- Very few people have reported issues. Of those who have, it’s usually been the removal tool that had problems.
- The main feedback I’ve seen is that the pin in the removal tool will bend if too much force is exerted on it and the tool isn’t 100% lined up with the roll pin. One person used a big screwdriver that applied far too much torque (see #3 above) and the other said that his roll pin had a burr on it that had stopped the pin from being able to push it out before the pin bent. The problem is that when the pin bends, the tool (which is intended to be basically disposable – but keep the hardware! It’s still is useful for other projects! ) is usually at a point when the roll pin is part way out and the rivet pin is part way into the pulley – effectively trapping the tool on the machine. Thus far, it’s happened in 3 out of over 40 installations. I’m considering the consequences of offering the tool with a steel pin option. If you’d like to test that, please order and reply to the order confirmation and let me know. The concern with the steel pin is the slight possibility of marring the motor shaft or deforming the roll pin but it will be less likely to bend and ruin the tool causing it to need to be cut off which would make installation more likely to be successful.
- There was one report of a pulley failure when the roll pin didn’t go in straight and shattered the collar.
- I’ve had one report of the pulley not having enough contact because of the shape of the O-Rings vs the flat surface of the original pulleys.
- There have been no other reports of issues once the pulleys were installed. Additionally, I have several hours of testing on my own early print and I have no complaints either.
16. Have you made any modifications or do you plan any modifications based on feedback?
- I have made a small modification to the pulley. It’s now a tiny bit shorter above where the roll pin is installed. This makes it more likely to easily clear the motor shaft without needing to lower the motor. Early machines may still require it but the installation is smoother on my test machine as a result of the change.
- I am looking at ways to redesign the removal tool so that it remains affordable AND:
- The pin can be backed out instead of needing to be pulled all the way out.
- The tool can be turned 90 degrees so that the roll pin can be more easily grabbed with less risk of dropping it inside the machine.
- The pin is less likely to bend
Any feedback on this is appreciated. Go ahead and contact me here.
